
No, it’s the most populous city in Rondônia, which is just a few degrees away from the middle. The city is actually growing on me. I was here in the fall by myself, and went almost nowhere beyond the few main streets for fear of being assaulted and robbed. This had recently happened to me in Rio, to be fair, so it was on my mind.
This time I am staying with my friends Tatiane and Paulo, who work at SIPAM (the Amazon Protection System) and who have lent me a hand making contacts and getting my research set up. I was fortunate to be able to do them a small favor bringing some small electronics over from the US and helping them beat Brazil’s incredible electronics tariffs. A baby monitor I purchased for them for $100 on Amazon.com would have cost around $R2000 ($US1700) in the real Amazon.

(note – I am uploading lower quality images for now to make the best of my little Amazon connection)
My only regret is not realizing Tati was pregnant, and not bringing colorful toys whose boxes the new baby could play with. Tati mailed me and I thought she said she would not be able to make our trip to Ji-Paraná because her doctor wouldn’t allow it as she had been sick for 7 months. She actually said she had been pregnant for 7 months and I should have consulted my dictionary.
I’ve been making contact with local government and rural associations, looking for lists of rural producers and for a better understanding about the kinds of information available here in Rondônia for agricultural actors to make their decisions. I tried endlessly while in Ann Arbor via email to get in touch with people here, but paradoxically Brazilians seem to prefer that you barge in on them unannounced than that you plan ahead. So I’ve been making better progress here, and coming a little bit out of my academic shell to talk to people.
Today we took the day off to see some of the history around Porto Velho. One of the big draws here is the abandoned Madeira-Mamoré Railway, one of the last steam lines in Brazil and the only one in the Amazon. Here the track disappears into the forest, near the Santo Antônio Waterfall.

The line near Porto Velho is littered with abandoned locomotives. All in all the building of this railroad around the turn of the 20th century cost more than 6000 lives, many of them foreigners from the US, England, Europe, China, and the Carribbean.

The house below was built around the time the tracks were first being laid, and is a part of the early history of Porto Velho. In the distance you can make out the Santo Antônio waterfall (yes, it’s the little trickle there by the rocks – keep in mind this is the middle of the dry season) and the city of Porto Velho.

The really tragic thing is that this whole area will soon be submerged within the reservoir of the Santo Antônio dam, whose construction is set to begin in August. This dam is one of two that will be constructed over the coming years, to be followed by two more upstream along the Madeira River (which will certainly diminish the potential of the original two). Making the whole project further obscene, most of the energy is to be sent to the south of Brazil, with incredible losses along the way, and will benefit little the local economy (which has little industry to speak of). I am probably among the last foreign visitors to this site, so I thought I would post a few pictures for you all to see. For those with deeper interest, visit the the Madeira-Mamoré Railway Society site to learn more.
And I’ll end with a shot of bees eating fish.
